I apologize for the sound quality and for my horse’s inattention. It was an extremely windy day and the loud gusts were bothering her, plus she had just been vaccinated (by the evil evil vet with the awful horrible needles), AND there was a noisy tractor running right outside the barn, so she was a smidge upset and distracted. Now, why is the juxtaposition between the two bits’ actions diminished once they are placed in the horse’s mouth? The primary reason is that in this environment, the bit folds slightly along its central joint to accommodate the tongue. This frees this joint, allowing the sides of the black bit to rotate more freely from one another than before. However, keep in mind that this black bit is not a true Tom Thumb. A real Tom Thumb would not have this degree of freedom even within a horse’s mouth due to the tightness at the junctions of all of its joints and the shape of its shanks. Unfortunately for the sake of the demonstration (but fortunately for my horses) I do not own a Tom Thumb, nor could I find one to borrow to make the video. So the clips you get here are imperfect in that regard, as they do not show the severity and total lack of side-to-side independence that you get with a real TT. Notice, however, that while both bits have some movement on the opposite side when one rein is pulled (and almost any bit will have this to some degree, with the possible exception of chain and Billy Allen / Myler mouths), it takes far less pressure on one rein to activate the motion of the black “TT,” meaning that the whole mouthpiece of that bit is rotating and pressing down on the horse’s mouth as a single unit, thus increasing its severity and decreasing its finesse, independent side movement, and total cuing ability.
All right. Let’s discuss the topic of Tom Thumbs and Argentine Snaffles, a surprisingly controversial subject… First off, when I say “snaffle mouth,” I mean two-piece, single-jointed. “Snaffle” is a misnomer, but a commonly accepted one, quoted by big name trainers in their videos, written about in magazines, and sold in tack catalogs. The word snaffle really means a bit with no shanks and direct rein -> mouthpiece action (something that Tom Thumbs and Argentine Snaffles clearly are not), but in the vernacular it often refers to the type of mouthpiece shown in this video, regardless of cheek style. The Tom Thumb is a bit that gets a bad rap for being very harsh–stories have been passed around of people breaking their horse’s jaw with it. Now, that seems a little exaggerated to me (I can’t imagine how much pressure they’d have to be exerting on the reins to cause that much damage), and while I don’t consider the TT to be particularly cruel, I just plain don’t like it for a variety of reasons. Many people do use and love this bit, swearing by it and using it for training colts. To each his own, but my personal opinion is that there are far better bits on the market.
Pictured below is a true Tom Thumb bit, as the black show bit used in the video, as mentioned, is not entirely a TT due to its curved shanks and slightly higher degree of freedom around the mouthpiece/shank connection.
That, right there, is a true Tom Thumb–and the worst one in existence. The straight shanks don’t give the horse any warning at all–the second you apply pressure, they pop right around, snatching the curb and activating the tongue-pinching and bar-crushing effects with the mouthpiece. It also makes direct reining difficult–the straight shanks, combined with the way the mouthpiece attaches to the shanks (no freedom whatsoever), mean that when you pull on one side, the entire bit twists rather painfully in the horse’s mouth. The curved shank versions aren’t quite as bad, but it’s still quite difficult for the rider to convey the intended cue to the horse, no matter how light or heavy his or her hands are. This bit just doesn’t have a whole lot of finesse in the horse’s mouth–it’s all or nothing. And any efforts at direct reining will likely result in confusion for the horse. While many horses do ride well in a TT, this often has far more to do with the kindness of the horse’s temperament than the quality of the bit.Now compare the above bit to this, your standard Argentine Snaffle.
At first glance, they look very similar. But the Argentine is much better balanced. Look at the curved shanks–these make it less harsh, and a slight touch of the rein will give a horse warning that a cue is coming, giving the horse time to react. Also, the joint between the two parts of the mouthpiece is finished better, so it will be less likely to pinch. Most importantly, the attachment from mouthpiece/shank is not fixed in the vertical direction. This gives both parts some freedom and independent movement. Slight jingles in the reins are often all that is needed to give a cue and thus get the desired response from the horse without the yanking that is often required with a Tom Thumb. Ask any horse–most will respond so much better to bits of this type.
In regards to folding and pinching of the mouthpiece into a palate-poking “V,” unfortunately I was not able to give a good visual demonstration of this effect. Keep in mind, as stated, that the bit will behave slightly differently in the organic environment of the horse’s mouth, interacting with tongue, bars, lips, jaw, and so on. The movement of the horse’s mouth certainly has the ability to change the orientation of the bit, and this could lead to some pinching with any mouthpiece, but more so with a two-piece “snaffle” mouth like this. However, in a curb bit like an Argentine or a TT, when the reins are held two-handed for direct-reining, the hands are wider apart than the cheeks of the bit (and the cheeks are further held apart by the very size and structure of the horse’s mouth), so the bit will not fold in on itself. Even when riding with one hand, the reins are separated by the width of the horse’s neck, and thus greatly minimize the inward force pulling the shanks together, and thus folding the bit. Pulling directly back, harshly, while riding one-handed with a centrally-positioned rein could perhaps begin to crush the bit inwards, but this is very poor riding and should be avoided regardless of the choice of bit. When neck-reining (and even when direct-reining), too, the primary control of speed, stop/go, and turning should come from the rider’s seat and legs and the “push” of the reins across the neck—not from bit pressure, again regardless of bit choice.
When are these bits appropriate? In my opinion, the answer for the Tom Thumb is “never.” For the Argentine Snaffle, I find it to be a good transition between a regular, true snaffle bit (O-ring, D-ring, etc.) and a curb of any kind. The mouthpiece is familiar to the horse, the shanks are short and relatively mild, and well made bits allow for some degree of independent side action, meaning that it can be used for direct-reining, flexion, lateral movement and so on. Recall again that bit quality is of the utmost importance. Some bits marketed as Argentines are really nothing but glorified Tom Thumbs. Try the bit out first to make sure that it works the way you think it will. The Argentine may also be a good choice for trail riding (so long as the hands using it understand its action and can use it appropriately) and for training any sort of horse who appreciates a bit with this design—and many do.
As with any bit, both of these require an educated hand with good “feel.” Whenever selecting a bit, play with it in your hands first to get an idea of how it works. When riding, visualize the bit in the horse’s mouth. With practice, you can even begin to feel what it is doing—you can actually “see” the rotation of the independent sizes of the mouthpiece, feel the curb chain activate, and so on. Thus you can temper your rein motions accordingly to transmit the clearest—softest and most precise—cue to your horse.
I am a middle aged working mom, and I’ve been married to my husband for 8 years. We have a lovely 7 year old daughter, and things were fine until September last year.
My husband got laid off when his company bought over another company, and they went through a “creative restructuring” to “maximise employee efficiency”. In other words, being told he wasn’t indispensable to a company where he’d been working for over 9 years struck him pretty hard. He refused to leave home for weeks, and did nothing but sit and stare at his computer screen all day. I thought I’d give him a month to work over his depression, but he didn’t seem to get any better.
I’ve been busy with a new contract at my office this past month, so I’d asked him if he would take care of our daughter during the school break. He agreed, but that’s when the problem started. I’d get back late everyday, only to find my daughter unwilling to talk to me or look me in the eye. I thought this was only because I wasn’t spending as much time at home, so I promised myself I’d spend the weekends with her. But it wasn’t until yesterday that I figured out what was going wrong.
I left home at 7 that morning as usual, and decided to take my iPad with me to work. It was low on charge, so I thought I’d use my iPhone’s car charger to juice it up. I was a few blocks away when the iPad gave me a message saying that charging was unsupported with that charger. I decided to head back home real quick to grab my iPad power adapter.
When I got back home, I crept in to my bedroom to see that my husband had put on my underwear and some of my makeup, and was parading around the room trying to “strut his stuff”. My daughter was sitting in front of him, following him keenly; a look of bewilderment and confusion on her face. He was trying to imitate my voice, and saying things like how I used my “booty” to get a promotion, and how I “sucked balls” to keep from being fired. He proceeded to use a tube of face cream to imitate fellatio, and my daughter just sat and watched.
I couldn’t take it anymore, and I rushed out of there as soon as I could. I can’t face my husband anymore, and I can’t figure out if and how I should bring it up. Is he insecure? Does he hate me for keeping my job? Is he trying to turn my daughter against me? Please help me Nuff – what should I do?
Dear iPad user,
The iPhone and the iPad both use the 30-pin connector to charge their batteries, but there are differences in the battery capacities. The iPhone/iPod Power Adapter is 5V, 1amp (5×1=5 watts), while the Ipad Power Adapters are 5V, 2Amp (5 x 2=10 Watts). So an iPad might charge using the iPhone’s Power Adapter, but it’s going to be way too slow. Car chargers for the iPhone are already strained delivering the required wattage as is, so it’s almost certain they won’t be able to keep up with the iPad.
The fastest way to charge your iPad is with the included 10W USB Power Adapter. The iPad will also charge, although more slowly, when attached to a computer with a high-power USB port (many recent Mac computers) . When attached to a computer via a standard USB port (most PCs or older Mac computers), the iPad will charge; but only in sleep mode. Make sure your computer is on while charging iPad via USB. If iPad is connected to a computer that’s turned off or is in sleep or standby mode, the iPad battery will continue to drain.
Take good care of your Apple accessories by keeping their unique charging requirements in mind.
Nuff said – Do unto others before they undo you.
— to be continued.